Saturday, May 29, 2010

The sunscreen dilemma

It's that time of year (rather short in Cleveland) where sunscreen becomes an issue. The more I read about sunscreen, the less I think it's a good solution to cancer. It apparently causes cancer. Go figure. This website ranks different ones though, as well as other skin care and body and baby products, and I use it to pick out ones that are less toxic:

cosmeticsdatabase.com

Given the latest articles (sorry don't have a link, but they're everywhere) about how crucial Vitamin D is, and how deficient most people are (especially here in CloudLand) I'm trying to avoid sunscreen altogether. Even aside from Vitamin D, I guess there's benefits to sunlight that they haven't quantified yet. Chris read an article about MS and how it doesn't affect people in sunny areas at nearly the same rates it does in cloudy parts of the world. And they ruled out Vitamin D as a factor. So....unless we're outside in direct sunlight for a long time, during 11-3, I'm not using sunscreen. When we are, I've been using Neutrogena Baby, though it turns out Vitamin A can increase the rate of skin lesions and tumors when used in sunlight so...I have to find something else to buy....

Friday, April 16, 2010

Green Laundry Detergent

We often make homemade Christmas presents, and one of our main gifts this year was laundry detergent. The gift was more what the detergent was not (unnecessary chemicals) than what it was, so the research that went into it was the main thing. Here's the overly long FAQ I put together to answer any questions you might possibly have about green detergent and why you would want to use it....

Homemade Laundry Detergent FAQ

Basic Recipe:

Ingredients:
2 cups finely grated soap (1 bar)
1 cup washing soda
1 cup borax
1. Mix well and store in an airtight plastic container.
2. Use 2 tablespoons per full load.

How to do it:
If you have a food processor with a grating blade, use that, otherwise grate by hand. So far I haven't ruined the machine by using my food processor and it's far easier. One blogger who does it took a picture: http://deuteronomy6.blogspot.com/2008/07/homemade-dry-laundry-soap.html. Grated, 1 bar of soap will look like 4 cups, but when pressed down a 4 oz. bar makes about 2 cups. Different recipes use different ratios of these three ingredients, but the recipe above is the one I saw most often when searching around online.
A pictorial guide to making laundry soap powder is available here: http://www.debtfreeadventure.com/2009/06/simple-easy-fast-effective-jabs-homemade-laundry-detergent/

Cost breakdown:
Castile soap –the most common brand is Dr. Bronner's, sold for $3.79 at Vitamin Shoppe, $4.19 at Target and $2.49 at Trader Joe's. Kirk's Castile soap was 1.29 at Heinen's. One bar per batch = 1.29
Washing soda: 2.99 at Heinen's, lasts for 6 batches--.50/batch
Borax: 3.99 at Giant Eagle 8 batches, 2.99 at Target--.37/batch
Total: 2.16 for one batch of homemade laundry detergent. This should last for 22 full loads. So that is .10 cents/load. However, if you figured a “load” the way most companies probably do, basing it on a “medium” size load (ref: common sense and http://www.mouseprint.org/2007/03/19/tide-32-load-bottles-are-they-on-the-level/) then your homemade batch, if packaged, would probably claim to have enough for 36-44 loads, with a resulting cost of .5-.8 cents per hypothetical “load.”

Price Comparison:
(I don't know how to get the chart to come out right)
A) Price per listed load B) Price per actual load (figured at 3/4 of the listed number of loads) C) Price per actual load (if you usually use a full cup of liquid detergent—figured at half the listed number of loads)
Homemade powdered detergent (22 full loads, but “listing” 44 loads if commercially packaged) A) $0.05 B) $0.08 C) $0.10
All Free & Clear (96 loads) A) $0.12 B) $0.18 C) $0.24
Tide (32 loads) A) $0.29 B) $0.44 C) $0.58
Seventh Generation Free & Clear (32 loads) A) $0.30 B) $0.45 C) $0.60
All Free & Clear (32 loads) A) $0.23 B) $0.35 C) $0.46

Trader Joe's powdered detergent is $7.99 for 64 loads, which figures to .12/load. If their measurement is for full loads, it may not be worth the effort to make your own. On the other hand, out of 29 laundry detergents rated by Consumer Reports in the November 2005 issue, Trader Joe's brand came in dead last. "With Trader Joe's, stains remained." It is also one of the few detergents which do not have "enzymes," which is according to Consumer Reports a "feature" and not a "HAZMAT situation." How homemade detergent would do in the rankings I don't know, but I recommend using stain treatment for anything dramatic, just like you would with a regular detergent.

Where to find it:

Washing soda
: in the laundry section at small chain grocery stores. Heinen's and Zagara's carry it, at least at the ones I've checked. It shows up at some Giant Eagle's apparently, but not all. It is not at Target. If you can't find it locally, call the company at 1-800-524-1328 for recommendations on the closest place that you can find it. Or you can go to their website: www.greatcleaners.com and order two boxes for $4.50 each with free shipping.

Borax : At Heinens, Target, Giant Eagle at Legacy, again in the laundry section.
Dr. Bronner's Castile bar soap : best selection is at Vitamin Shoppe for 3.79, but it is also at Target in one of the cosmetic aisles (there are two scented options, no unscented) for 4.20, at Trader Joe's, one scent only, for 2.49.
Kirk's Castile soap is available at Heinen's for 1.29.

Other bar soaps will work. Ivory doesn't have ingredients listed but does seem to have very few ingredients and would be a good option if you want to go with a major brand. According to Wikipedia: The Ivory soap bar (classic) had contained: sodium tallowate, sodium cocoate or sodium palm kernelate, water, sodium chloride, sodium silicate, magnesium sulfate, and fragrance. New varieties of Ivory soap contain altered ingredients, such as in "Simply Ivory" (or "simplement ivory"): sodium tallowate and/or sodium palmate, water, sodium cocoate or sodium palm kernelate, glycerin, sodium chloride, fragrance, one or more of the following: coconut acid, palm kernel acid, tallow acid or palm acid and tetrasodium EDTA.

Why it is more green:
According to http://www.ecomii.com/tips/better-laundering
Many of the detergents, bleaches, and fabric softeners contain synthetic fragrances and chemical whiteners that can threaten the health of your family as well as the environment.

These unnatural substances do not readily biodegrade when released from your home and, as a result, can build up in lakes and streams, disrupting and even poisoning ecosystems, and can eventually find their way into drinking water supplies. According to the EPA, increased exposure to these substances can cause skin and respiratory reactions, or more severe issues like cancer, poisoning and neurological and reproductive problems.

To be more safe and green, try plant based detergents, made from corn, palm kernel, or coconut oil and non-chlorine bleach, made from sodium percarbonate. Check the label on the container the next time you purchase laundry detergent and steer clear of: phosphates, chlorine, and surfactants. Look for products that boast specific qualities like “no phosphates” or “plant-based,” rather than those that use vague terms like “green” or “eco-friendly.”

According to Wikipedia: The CO2 emissions from a liquid laundry detergent used to wash an average load of laundry is about 0.7 kilograms (1.5 lb).[1] The loss of natural habitat potential from a liquid laundry detergent used to wash an average load of laundry is about 0.5 square metres (5.4 sq ft) based on primary production correlations.

According to http://www.sixwise.com/newsletters/05/0/06/the_toxic_dangers_of_typical_laundry_detergent.htm
The very detergents that we use to make our clothes "clean" may actually be leaving them worse off than they were before we threw them in the wash. That's because most commercial laundry detergents, the common brands you find at grocery stores, are loaded with potentially toxic chemicals that could harm you, your family and the environment.
Residues of these chemicals are left on your clothes and possibly absorbed by your skin and evaporated into the air where they could be breathed in.

A Typical Laundry Detergent
If you take a look at a bottle of laundry detergent, you'll find that the ingredients are rather vague. One popular brand listed, for instance:
  • Cleaning agents (anionic and nonionic surfactants)
  • Buffering agent
  • Stabilizer
  • Brightening agent
  • Fragrance
From this list, it's hard to tell what, exactly, is even in the detergent, so we broke down some of the more common laundry ingredients out there.

Linear alkyl sodium sulfonates (LAS)
: These synthetic surfactants are commonly listed as 'anionic surfactants' on labels, and are one of the most common surfactants in use. During their production process, carcinogenic and reproductive toxins such as benzene are released into the environment. They also biodegrade slowly, making them a hazard in the environment.

Petroleum distillates (aka napthas)
: These chemicals have been linked to cancer, lung damage, lung inflammation and damage to mucous membranes.

Phenols:
According to the National Institutes of Health, phenol is toxic and people who are hypersensitive to it could experience death or serious side effects at very low exposures. Plus, it is rapidly absorbed and can cause toxicity throughout the entire body. Typically, death and severe toxicity result from phenol's effects on the central nervous system, heart, blood vessels, lungs and kidneys.
One common surfactant in U.S. laundry detergents is nonyl phenol ethoxylate (this chemical has been banned in Europe, and was found to slowly biodegrade into even more toxic compounds). Studies have found that this surfactant stimulates the growth of breast cancer cells and feminizes male fish.

Optical brighteners:
These synthetic chemicals convert UV light wavelengths into visible light, which makes laundered clothes appear whiter (although does not actually affect the cleanliness of the clothing). They've been found to be toxic to fish and to cause bacterial mutations. Further, they can cause allergic reactions when exposed to skin that is later exposed to sunlight.

Phosphates:
These chemicals are used to remove hard-water minerals to make detergents more effective, and to prevent dirt from settling back onto clothes during a wash. A major problem with them is that, when released into the environment, they stimulate the growth of certain marine plants, which contributes to unbalanced ecosystems. Many states have banned or restricted the use of phosphates for this reason, and you may see laundry detergents advertised as "low-phosphate" or "phosphate-free."

Sodium hypochlorite (household bleach)
: This is a chemical precursor to chlorine, which is highly toxic and involved in more household poisonings than any other chemical. When it reacts with organic materials in the environment, carcinogenic and toxic compounds are created than can cause reproductive, endocrine and immune system disorders.

EDTA (ethylene-diamino-tetra-acetate)
: EDTA is a class of compounds used as an alternative to phosphates to reduce mineral hardness in water, prevent bleaching agents from becoming active before they're put in water and as a foaming stabilizer. EDTA does not biodegrade readily and can re-dissolve toxic heavy metals in the environment, allowing them to re-enter the food chain.

Artificial fragrances:
Many of these can be made from petroleum (see petroleum distillates above), and do not degrade in the environment. They've been linked to various toxic effects on fish and mammals, and often cause allergies and skin and eye irritation.
Many eco-friendly detergents can be found at the same price as conventional detergents. Or, replace the store-bought detergents with natural, homemade concoctions. For example, bleach can be replaced with lemon juice or white vinegar for removing stains. A small change can make a load of a difference.

If you want to make liquid detergent:
http://www.thesimpledollar.com/2008/04/09/making-your-own-laundry-detergent-a-detailed-visual-guide/
Supposedly you can let bar soap sit in water for awhile (days/weeks) and it will eventually dissolve, if you don't want to grate it for use in liquid soap.

Chemical information, Ingredient Definitions & Uses (Wikipedia 12/4/09):

Washing soda
is Sodium carbonate (also known as soda crystals or soda ash), Na2CO3, a sodium salt of carbonic acid. It most commonly occurs as a crystalline heptahydrate, which readily effloresces to form a white powder, the monohydrate; and is domestically well known for its everyday use as a water softener. It has a cooling alkaline taste, and can be extracted from the ashes of many plants. It is synthetically produced in large quantities from table salt in a process known as the Solvay process. Among other things, Sodium carbonate is a food additive used as an acidity regulator, anti-caking agent, raising agent and stabilizer. It is one of the components of kansui, a solution of alkaline salts used to give ramen noodles their characteristic flavor and texture. Sodium carbonate is also used in the production of sherbet powder. The cooling and fizzing sensation results from the endothermic reaction between sodium carbonate and a weak acid, commonly citric acid, releasing carbon dioxide gas, which occurs when the sherbet is moistened by saliva.

Borax
, (Na2B4O7*10H2O) also known as sodium borate, sodium tetraborate, or disodium tetraborate, is an important boron compound, a mineral, and a salt of boric acid. It is usually a white powder consisting of soft colorless crystals that dissolve easily in water.
Borax has a wide variety of uses. It is a component of many detergents, cosmetics, and enamel glazes. It is also used to make buffer solutions in biochemistry, as a fire retardant, as an anti-fungal compound for fiberglass, as an insecticide, as a flux in metallurgy, a texturing agent in cooking, and as a precursor for other boron compounds.
Borax, given the E number E285, is used as a food additive in some countries but is banned in the United States. In consequence certain foods, such as caviar, produced for sale in the U.S. contain higher levels of salt to assist preservation.[4] Its use in cooking is to add a firm rubbery texture to the food, or as a preservative. In oriental cooking it is mostly used for its texturing properties. In China it was found to have been added to hand-pulled noodles (lamian) and some Cheung Fun recipes.[citation needed] In Indonesia it is a common, but forbidden, additive to such foods as noodles, meatballs and steamed rice. The country's Directorate of Consumer Protection warns of the risk of liver cancer with high consumption over a period of 5–10 years.[5]

Sodium borate is an ingredient in the vaccine Gardasil, manufactured by Merck.

Borax, sodium tetraborate decahydrate, is not acutely toxic. [8] Its LD50 (median lethal dose) score is tested at 2.66 g/kg in rats. [9] This does not mean that it is safe, merely that a significant dose of the chemical is needed to cause severe symptoms or death. The median lethal dose for humans tends to differ for a given compound from that of rats. Simple exposure can cause respiratory and skin irritation. Ingestion may cause gastrointestinal distress including nausea, persistent vomiting, abdominal pain, and diarrhea. Effects on the vascular system and brain include headaches and lethargy, but are less frequent. "In severe poisonings, a beefy red skin rash affecting palms, soles, buttocks and scrotum has been described. With severe poisoning, erythematous and exfoliative rash, unconsciousness, respiratory depression, and renal failure." [10]
A reassessment of boric acid/borax by the United States Environmental Protection Agency Office of Pesticide Programs found potential developmental toxicity (especially effects on the testes).[11] Boric acid solutions used as an eye wash or on abraded skin are known to be especially toxic to infants, especially after repeated use because of its slow elimination rate.

Castile soap
, according to (http://www.greenlivingtips.com/articles/221/1/Castile-soap.html 12/4/09) isn't a brand but a type of soap made exclusively from vegetable oil rather than animal fat or synthetic substances. The purists feel it should be made from olive oil but there's a wide variety of castile variants that use oil from plants such as coconut and jojoba. The simple nature of the soap means a lesser environmental impact due to reduced waste stream during manufacture and also faster biodegradability.

While castile soaps can have additional synthetic ingredients, usually you'll find if it's marketed under that name, it's a fairly natural sort of product. They are less likely to dry your skin since their glycerin content is retained, whereas in normal soaps much of the glycerin is removed and sold separately in moisturizers.

Regarding High Efficiency (HE) Front-Load Washers
You may have been told you need to use “special soap” for your HE front-load washing machine. Let me enlighten you as to why. HE front-load washers require “special soap” for one reason and one reason alone…low suds; because they use less water, they require soap that is less sudsy. The good news is, homemade detergent is VERY low suds. Just make sure you use the recommended amount of detergent.
Final considerations:
The residue of powdered can build up in septic systems, so if you don't have city water this may not be your best choice. Also, if you have very hard water neither may rinse out as well as regular detergent. Adding vinegar in the rinse may help, but you should research this further if you anticipate or find this to be an issue.

All I Need is Vinegar & Castile Soap

One of my goals is to cut down on unnecessary chemicals in the products we use regularly. Our skin is an organ, after all, and it does absorb things, even though there is little to no regulation of what is put into "topical use" products since we aren't officially ingesting them. In this pursuit I've discovered the many uses of vinegar and castile soap---which happen to be vastly cheaper than their alternatives.

Distilled White Vinegar:
1. Main component of the anti-bacterial all-purpose cleaner I make
2. Weed killer--thistles especially.
3. Hair conditioner (apple cider vinegar)
4. Fabric softener (I'm still using up my sheets, but plan to start using this when I'm done)
5. Jet-dry substitute in the dishwasher

Castile soap:
1. Shampoo
2. Main component of the foaming hand-soap refill I make
3. Body wash


Recipes:
(Note: Tea tree oil has antibacterial properties and smells good, so you can add drops of this to almost any cleaner. Don't overdo it because studies show it can cause health issues in large quantities as well, however, at least for small children or pregnant women.)

All-purpose Disinfectant:
  • 4 tablespoons white vinegar (or more as desired)
  • 3 to 4 cups hot water
  • 2 teaspoons borax (optional—I choose to avoid it for food surfaces) 1/4 teaspoon liquid castile soap (optional for extra cleaning power)
Mix together in a large spray bottle. Shake before using.It does smell a bit while you're using it---more if you use more vinegar--but it evaporates pretty quickly.

Homemade Liquid Hand Soap FOR FOAMING DISPENSER

  • 1 cup water (give or take)
  • 3 tablespoons liquid castile soap
  • Drops of essential oils if desired
Put the liquid castile soap and essential oil into a reused pump bottle and then add water to fill the remaining space.